The Barrier Buster
By Diane Jones, CLE, MLSO
Our skin, the largest organ of the body has a pretty tough job. It not only protects us day and night from the elements of the outside world, but also serves as the physical ambassador of our inner selves. We want to put our best face forward so it’s important to keep our skin healthy and fit to maintain a more youthful and vibrant appearance. Constant skin cell regeneration must take place to maintain healthy skin. Your skin can shed 30,000 to 40,000 dead skin cells per minute! This process is really important and works great when we are younger, which is the reason children typically have such beautiful skin. As we age, this process slows down a lot so natural shedding may not be enough. Dead skin cells which sit on the surface of the skin are duller, dryer and flakier than the newer cells underneath. Cell regeneration is also important for teenagers with very oily skin. If the dead skin cells aren’t removed effectively, dirt and debris can become trapped in the pores and create acne.
Exfoliation is the term used to remove the dead, lifeless cells that want to hang around a bit too long. This practice has been around since earliest recorded Egyptian history. Cleopatra was famous for luxuriating in milk baths. She was exfoliating her skin with lactic acid (which is a by product of milk). Over the last ten to fifteen years exfoliation has become quite the buzz word among skin care specialists. Many over enthusiastic exfoliating practices were used during this time. I call them the Barrier Buster’s because over exfoliation can disrupt the natural protective barrier of the skin and keep it from doing its job of protection. Research has revealed both pros and cons in regard to exfoliation. I have personally watched the trend hit a peak and level out with a more common sense approach. So yes, exfoliate, exfoliate, and again I say exfoliate. Be sensible, more is not better and follow your skin care specialist’s advice. They can direct you to the right products for your skin type proper usage.
Here are a few quick tips.
- Always use warm water when cleansing as hot can be too drying.
- When applying an exfoliating scrub or acid, work in a circular motion as this will drive it deeper into the skin.
- Do not exfoliate on a daily basis. Once or twice a week is usually enough. Unless the skin is extremely oily, it may be appropriate to do more often.
- If you have sensitive skin, stay away from alph-hydroxy acids as they may be too drying. Use a product with biological ingredients like micro-beads.
- Redness and irritation are signs that it’s too harsh or you’ve done it too often.
- There are chemical, enzymatic and physical exfoliators. Use a combination for best results. (Again, seek professional advice.)
- Exfoliate the entire body to maintain healthy skin all over.
- Never scrub too hard. Less is more. Over scrubbing can cause skin damage and broken capillaries.
- Use professional skin care products for best results
- Always hydrate after exfoliation
- If you have acne or breakout prone skin, do not over scrub. This will make it worse and spread the bacteria.
- Over exfoliation may cause dryness, redness and can thin the skin.
